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Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 26, 2010 at 16:33

cutting a triangle off the base where it pokes out of the mdf.
spot the difference in the pictures

Premium Member Comment by Adam on March 26, 2010 at 12:29

Very similar to my press only i used 3mm mdf layers. fitz said i should have a sacrificial layer of ply top and bottom to stop the sharp edges digging in to the ply but it ended up ok but once again i was doing 3mm. with yours it might be good to use one. keep the layers you want stuck together separated from the extra layers by a sheet of plastic to stop the wrong bits sticking together.

what do you mean cutting the bottom???

Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 25, 2010 at 18:01

*cutting the bottom *

Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 25, 2010 at 18:00

Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 25, 2010 at 17:56

i think its gonna look like the top one where the concave looks more like two diagonal humps rather than a proper tub concave. i would rather have the tub tho.
the way that im gonna do this is by the bottom base from the last piece of mdf down the the corner.

Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 25, 2010 at 17:54

Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 25, 2010 at 17:52

kk, finished the press, heres sorta how it looks

Premium Member Comment by pete hill on March 25, 2010 at 14:29

matthys, bunnings polyester resin is crap, go to volks glass in springwood and get some epoxy, both poly and epoxy need the catylyst/hardener or they dont harden - simple.
you will need as much resin as the weight of the glass you intend to wet down + %10

ie:- one sq metre of 300gsm glass will require 330grams of resin.

good luck trying to get tight radius bends with prelam ply, ive never tried because i know it wont work the only way to acheive true laminated tight radius bends is with venneer and you can use the adhesives that bond the ceramic tiles to the spaceshuttle to laminate your prelam together but its the laminates that you did not glue that will let you down six months down the track, you will be best off keeping it simple and doing top mount or drop through with concave.
have fun, ALWAYS cover your arms/hands/legs and wear a mask when working with glass (especially when sanding) also make sure you make a massive mess in dads shed, he'll love it.

Premium Member Comment by Adam on March 25, 2010 at 10:41

ask a fiberglass shop or boat building shop in your area yellow pages, my boards have a single layer of glass sheet. read all the posts on here as these questions have been answered. pm me with email address i can send you an instruction document on fiberglassing. but i got it from a link some one put on this discussion board. and yes that is what Steve means 0ne inch drop is pretty big mine is 12mm or 1/2 inch????? and i used 3mm. if you don't mind a shallow slope it might be ok.

Premium Member Comment by Matthys on March 25, 2010 at 7:22

by the way, where do you guys get your fiberglass resin, ive seen it at bunnings for like 25$ for a medium sized paint tin, but bias have a bigger range, do you think ittle work out cheaper from there?
btw
how much resin will i need for 4 boards?
its about a meter squared per board for like 3 sheets of glass , but im not sure how much resin you use...

im still a little bit confused with aplication too. do you buy the resin. then buy the catalyst seperately or does the resin work by itself????

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