for any one who has made/modified a board. post some pics of your press or completed boards, its all good. also, maybe share some tips on building and where to get supplies also, occasionally, we can have a build off from time to time...
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Latest Activity: Jun 8, 2016
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hey guys, was just wondering, how do u guys drill/mark out ur bolt holes for ur trucks??if uve made a jig post a pic if u want, ive read through the thread and came across this, it seems pretty good,…Click here for the full story
Started by dean cunningham. Last reply by Adam Nov 14, 2013.
These are industrial strength super heavy duty forms made from railway sleepers.You will need a press to create your decks with these forms.They are total surface contact forms, not just edge bending…Click here for the full story
Started by Fitz. Last reply by Fitz Aug 23, 2013.
Hey crew.Just a quick note to say big props! We are a small team here at Prince Albert, and have gone through a lot of R&D to teach ourselves how to make boards to a marketable quality. All the…Click here for the full story
Started by Bryan Sainsbury-Hore Jul 10, 2013.
Whats some cheap easy ways I can put a concave on some ply .Click here for the full story
Started by charliefisher. Last reply by Deeks63 Jun 6, 2013.
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Hey Darcy - the Selleys stuff is good and provides a very solid bond when you're in the early days of board making. I've run up about 6 or 7 decks using it with no de-lam issues. Having said that it's not completely waterproof, but dont let that worry you too much. Down here south of the border, the Bunnings marine-grade ply aint generally hoop pine (but Mitre10's is) but it comes in many species. All are good - things to watch for with Hoop Pine is it's soft - good for bending, bad for running into stuff that is hard (gutter, etc) so overcome that somewhat with a good epoxy. Don't go for the Diggers brand from Bunnings - it's a polyester epoxy and not great for end-strangth on your deck - some real epoxy like the West Systems 105 is significantly better and cost about the same (and even less in larger quantities). Did you think about any reinforcement (glass)? will help with the stiffness as well.
I am intending to have a WB of about 29 inches and somewhere between a 1/2 to 3/4 inches of concave if that helps. The glue will most likely be Selleys Aquadhere Tradesman's Choice. I have read that it is cheap and available at Bunnings and works well. The wood I'm not so sure as it depends what the local timber place has. Thanks for responding so quickly to my question before.
3 layers of 4mm or 4 layers of 3mm should be fine. Having said that other factors also affect stiffness like amount of concave, WB length, glue used and type of wood used.....
Hi all.. just finished reading this thread. I am planning to make a topmount speedboard using a dimm press. I'm sourcing some foam off a friend.
My plan so far is to use hoop pine or marine ply in either 3mm or 4mm. Whichever one I can find for the cheapest price basically. For a glue I am planning to use a cross-linking PVA. The middle board by Alexander on page 7 is the sort of thing I'm aiming for. It will be approximately 38x10 inches. My question is how many layers will I need to make to board to ensure a super stiff ride for someone who is about 80kg.
Laminate is what I build with. Add saw cuts and resin and it becomes stronger than just plain laminate and a curving makes it even stronger.
but even with a smaller board its still possible to do a big bend, but a 30mm curve tends to cause splitting.
Nah u did it wrong, I bent 14mm and put a 25mm concave into it. the board is 1200 long and 305 wide
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