Spray Painting trucks
Hey do you guys know if there is anything wrong with spraypainting trucks if i take the hanger, the baseplate and the kingpin out and just do the hangar and baseplate.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by Ian Coggan on -
i dont think anything is wrong with it. but by spray painting do you mean aerosol can or air compressor spray painting.
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Permalink Reply by Scott Poole on
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I dont think there is anything wrong with spray painting them but if you were i would try and do a good job of it... and try to romove your pivort cups and dont get any paint where you bearings silde on to...(axel)
This is just something i found when i used to BMX and was looking to paint my frame so something may be a bit diffrent but this is still the genrall rule for a bloody good job!! If you want to do a shity job then just spray paint over what ever it there but if not, read on :D
You may have heard this before, but preparation is EVERYTHING!
If you can feel a bump, lump, dent, paint feather, you will see it in the final product.
If your frame is bulky, get it carefully sandblasted. If it is high end thin walled, maybe ask for a light blast, then do the rest with paint stripper.
Paint Stripper: apply in bulk, with a paint brush, heaps of it!! you may need to move it around a bit to get fresh stripper over the paint, you may need to re-apply. It is a good idea if you don't blast the frame even lightly, to graze it with some 100 grit to allow the stripper to penatrate the surface.
If You do get your frame blasted, try not to touch it, and don't go near it with any sort of rag! The fibres from the rag will pick up on the rough blasted surface.
So you have the frame bare, check for cracks dents or stone chips. Sand protrusions, or fill dents with car body filler, don't use filler from your cupboard that is years old, filler is made in different compunds for different seasons (summer / winter) and it does go off. make sure you follow the instructions, if you apply too mauch hardener you will get pinholes for example, too little, it wont set.
Now the frame is almost ready. But if it was stripped and not blasted I always rub over it with 600 wet and dry sand paper. A good way to double check the surface again.
NOTE: If you have a new frame, simply remove all decals and remove the gloss with 600 wet and dry. The Matt finish on 05 STP2's is a great start to a respray
If your frame is stripped or sanded and ready you must clean it. Remembering that you don't want to touch a sandblasted frame with a rag and a blasted frame is usually pretty clean. Buy some wax and grease remover and poor it on a rag wipe it on really wet. The trick is to wipe it off with another wet rag before it dries. Or even hose it off. Then dry it (with pressured air if you have a compressor) and don't touch it! Your skin no matter how clean is full of oil.
If you apply your 1st primer coat then another thicker one and you get spots that look sort of like "fish eyes" STOP. Your frame is still greasy, and no matter how much you paint over these imperfections will come through.
Painting: I only use Plasticaot USUALLY SUPER ENAMEL cans! It is durable, easy to use, and covers and fills well. I have a spray gun and have been down the automotive 2 pac path, it just costs lots, and chips more. The Plasticoat can take a beating. Don't be put off by aerosols! The only time you need a spray gun is for good coverage, a good even fan, which isn't important on a tube of a frame. On the other side, go buy a cheap sporay can and expect it to last a few weeks before you regret it!
1st Coat: Always use undercoat! Always really light! Plasticaot doesn't have an aluminium specific undercoat (EDIT DOES NOW, But might be hard to get??), but I haven't had a problem with bonding. Think of the 1st coat as simply roughening up the surface to stop the next coat running, you should still be able to see the metal of the frame.
2nd and after Undercoats: Get a bit thicker, I get as close to running the paint as I can. I use the "wet on wet" method for painting my frames, that means my undercoat is not fully dry between coats or before I apply the top coat. Easier I think, you don'tg give foriegn matter the chance to stick to the frame. Just allow the paint to get a bit sticky.
If you get a run, stop! Be patient, allow it to dry fully (Go have a beer and wait 10 hours or so) then sand that area back with 600 grit smooth.
Paint the little bits and nooks first. Brake line bosses, Calliper mounts, welds etc...
Keeping a "wet edge": Don't just spray here and there, your paint as it hits the frame should look smooth and wet, and as you spray in long even strokes around 20-30cm's from the frame work your way around the frame overlapping past where you last painted. The idea is not to get areas of dry overspray on yer frame.
Conditions: If it is colder than 20deg, wet, foggy etc, don't paint. Not so bad with enamels and 2k as acrylic, but still a bad idea. If your using acrylics it sucks in moisture as it dries, not such a good thing.
Just keep applying the paint! 3, 4, 5 coats, I just keep going (5 might be pushing it!!). If that can starts to feel empty, stop. As it empties too much the paint will splatter, leaving blobs on your frame. Once your happy with your finish, say check after 3 coats, then leave it hang for a day, if you like it, leave it, too much and you start to get chipping too easily.
Clear Coat: not always needed, but it does give a better shine. As far as I know the talk of it as a protective layer and being harder is just bullshit. Most cars that aren't metallic aren't clearcoated. Clearcoat is used over metallics, for the sole reason to prevent the metal in the paint from dulling due to oxidisation. While we talk of clear, it is a real pain to wet edge. Try lights (halogen) and moving your head around to see the wet edge on the paint.
It is possible to get a really smooth paint job by sanding between your primer and top coat with a 800 wet and dry, with plasticoat this isn't really benificial, and I prefer the wet on wet all the way. Even on non metallic paints you can sand the top coat with even a 100 grit, again, compromise the bonding of paint.
Never ever sand metallic (before the clear). You will simply flatten and dull the metal flakes, wait until you have applied the clear and let it dry before you sand. At that stage very lightly with 1500 grit wet and dry and a running hose is the trick. Then a good quality cut and polish, followed by a organic based wax. Don't even start to sand the clear until a week after applying, allowing it to harden completely.
If it is a touch on the cool side, flog the heaters and hang your freshly painted frame up to bake it a little (10 hours is sweet).
Protective gear: A well ventilated, but not breezy area. A proper spray painting mask, silver lined gloves, long sleeve shirt, pants, shoes, and a cap or something to stop overspray from geting into your hair.
The last frame I painted I didn't wear shoes, the overspray settling to the garage floor stuck to my feet before it dried and was a pain to scrub off
Hope this helps! have fun!
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Permalink Reply by Nick Mayor on
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you should consider writing books, haha, jokes good reply
Scott Poole said:I dont think there is anything wrong with spray painting them but if you were i would try and do a good job of it... and try to romove your pivort cups and dont get any paint where you bearings silde on to...(axel)
This is just something i found when i used to BMX and was looking to paint my frame so something may be a bit diffrent but this is still the genrall rule for a bloody good job!! If you want to do a shity job then just spray paint over what ever it there but if not, read on :D
You may have heard this before, but preparation is EVERYTHING!
If you can feel a bump, lump, dent, paint feather, you will see it in the final product.
If your frame is bulky, get it carefully sandblasted. If it is high end thin walled, maybe ask for a light blast, then do the rest with paint stripper.
Paint Stripper: apply in bulk, with a paint brush, heaps of it!! you may need to move it around a bit to get fresh stripper over the paint, you may need to re-apply. It is a good idea if you don't blast the frame even lightly, to graze it with some 100 grit to allow the stripper to penatrate the surface.
If You do get your frame blasted, try not to touch it, and don't go near it with any sort of rag! The fibres from the rag will pick up on the rough blasted surface.
So you have the frame bare, check for cracks dents or stone chips. Sand protrusions, or fill dents with car body filler, don't use filler from your cupboard that is years old, filler is made in different compunds for different seasons (summer / winter) and it does go off. make sure you follow the instructions, if you apply too mauch hardener you will get pinholes for example, too little, it wont set.
Now the frame is almost ready. But if it was stripped and not blasted I always rub over it with 600 wet and dry sand paper. A good way to double check the surface again.
NOTE: If you have a new frame, simply remove all decals and remove the gloss with 600 wet and dry. The Matt finish on 05 STP2's is a great start to a respray
If your frame is stripped or sanded and ready you must clean it. Remembering that you don't want to touch a sandblasted frame with a rag and a blasted frame is usually pretty clean. Buy some wax and grease remover and poor it on a rag wipe it on really wet. The trick is to wipe it off with another wet rag before it dries. Or even hose it off. Then dry it (with pressured air if you have a compressor) and don't touch it! Your skin no matter how clean is full of oil.
If you apply your 1st primer coat then another thicker one and you get spots that look sort of like "fish eyes" STOP. Your frame is still greasy, and no matter how much you paint over these imperfections will come through.
Painting: I only use Plasticaot USUALLY SUPER ENAMEL cans! It is durable, easy to use, and covers and fills well. I have a spray gun and have been down the automotive 2 pac path, it just costs lots, and chips more. The Plasticoat can take a beating. Don't be put off by aerosols! The only time you need a spray gun is for good coverage, a good even fan, which isn't important on a tube of a frame. On the other side, go buy a cheap sporay can and expect it to last a few weeks before you regret it!
1st Coat: Always use undercoat! Always really light! Plasticaot doesn't have an aluminium specific undercoat (EDIT DOES NOW, But might be hard to get??), but I haven't had a problem with bonding. Think of the 1st coat as simply roughening up the surface to stop the next coat running, you should still be able to see the metal of the frame.
2nd and after Undercoats: Get a bit thicker, I get as close to running the paint as I can. I use the "wet on wet" method for painting my frames, that means my undercoat is not fully dry between coats or before I apply the top coat. Easier I think, you don'tg give foriegn matter the chance to stick to the frame. Just allow the paint to get a bit sticky.
If you get a run, stop! Be patient, allow it to dry fully (Go have a beer and wait 10 hours or so) then sand that area back with 600 grit smooth.
Paint the little bits and nooks first. Brake line bosses, Calliper mounts, welds etc...
Keeping a "wet edge": Don't just spray here and there, your paint as it hits the frame should look smooth and wet, and as you spray in long even strokes around 20-30cm's from the frame work your way around the frame overlapping past where you last painted. The idea is not to get areas of dry overspray on yer frame.
Conditions: If it is colder than 20deg, wet, foggy etc, don't paint. Not so bad with enamels and 2k as acrylic, but still a bad idea. If your using acrylics it sucks in moisture as it dries, not such a good thing.
Just keep applying the paint! 3, 4, 5 coats, I just keep going (5 might be pushing it!!). If that can starts to feel empty, stop. As it empties too much the paint will splatter, leaving blobs on your frame. Once your happy with your finish, say check after 3 coats, then leave it hang for a day, if you like it, leave it, too much and you start to get chipping too easily.
Clear Coat: not always needed, but it does give a better shine. As far as I know the talk of it as a protective layer and being harder is just bullshit. Most cars that aren't metallic aren't clearcoated. Clearcoat is used over metallics, for the sole reason to prevent the metal in the paint from dulling due to oxidisation. While we talk of clear, it is a real pain to wet edge. Try lights (halogen) and moving your head around to see the wet edge on the paint.
It is possible to get a really smooth paint job by sanding between your primer and top coat with a 800 wet and dry, with plasticoat this isn't really benificial, and I prefer the wet on wet all the way. Even on non metallic paints you can sand the top coat with even a 100 grit, again, compromise the bonding of paint.
Never ever sand metallic (before the clear). You will simply flatten and dull the metal flakes, wait until you have applied the clear and let it dry before you sand. At that stage very lightly with 1500 grit wet and dry and a running hose is the trick. Then a good quality cut and polish, followed by a organic based wax. Don't even start to sand the clear until a week after applying, allowing it to harden completely.
If it is a touch on the cool side, flog the heaters and hang your freshly painted frame up to bake it a little (10 hours is sweet).
Protective gear: A well ventilated, but not breezy area. A proper spray painting mask, silver lined gloves, long sleeve shirt, pants, shoes, and a cap or something to stop overspray from geting into your hair.
The last frame I painted I didn't wear shoes, the overspray settling to the garage floor stuck to my feet before it dried and was a pain to scrub off
Hope this helps! have fun!
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by sean meaney on -
i have done a few pairs of trucks, few things you want to do are firstly and this is very important BUY GOOD QUALITY PAINT, Personally i love Montanna Gold (brand not colour) as its very long lasting and is easy to apply a light coat with, rough it up with some wet dry sand paper and mask the pivot and axle, light coats are the go, good luck mate its a dope little thing to do
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Permalink Reply by Cooper Kruize on
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im pretty sure he copied and pasted it..hahha
Scott Poole said:I dont think there is anything wrong with spray painting them but if you were i would try and do a good job of it... and try to romove your pivort cups and dont get any paint where you bearings silde on to...(axel)
This is just something i found when i used to BMX and was looking to paint my frame so something may be a bit diffrent but this is still the genrall rule for a bloody good job!! If you want to do a shity job then just spray paint over what ever it there but if not, read on :D
You may have heard this before, but preparation is EVERYTHING!
If you can feel a bump, lump, dent, paint feather, you will see it in the final product.
If your frame is bulky, get it carefully sandblasted. If it is high end thin walled, maybe ask for a light blast, then do the rest with paint stripper.
Paint Stripper: apply in bulk, with a paint brush, heaps of it!! you may need to move it around a bit to get fresh stripper over the paint, you may need to re-apply. It is a good idea if you don't blast the frame even lightly, to graze it with some 100 grit to allow the stripper to penatrate the surface.
If You do get your frame blasted, try not to touch it, and don't go near it with any sort of rag! The fibres from the rag will pick up on the rough blasted surface.
So you have the frame bare, check for cracks dents or stone chips. Sand protrusions, or fill dents with car body filler, don't use filler from your cupboard that is years old, filler is made in different compunds for different seasons (summer / winter) and it does go off. make sure you follow the instructions, if you apply too mauch hardener you will get pinholes for example, too little, it wont set.
Now the frame is almost ready. But if it was stripped and not blasted I always rub over it with 600 wet and dry sand paper. A good way to double check the surface again.
NOTE: If you have a new frame, simply remove all decals and remove the gloss with 600 wet and dry. The Matt finish on 05 STP2's is a great start to a respray
If your frame is stripped or sanded and ready you must clean it. Remembering that you don't want to touch a sandblasted frame with a rag and a blasted frame is usually pretty clean. Buy some wax and grease remover and poor it on a rag wipe it on really wet. The trick is to wipe it off with another wet rag before it dries. Or even hose it off. Then dry it (with pressured air if you have a compressor) and don't touch it! Your skin no matter how clean is full of oil.
If you apply your 1st primer coat then another thicker one and you get spots that look sort of like "fish eyes" STOP. Your frame is still greasy, and no matter how much you paint over these imperfections will come through.
Painting: I only use Plasticaot USUALLY SUPER ENAMEL cans! It is durable, easy to use, and covers and fills well. I have a spray gun and have been down the automotive 2 pac path, it just costs lots, and chips more. The Plasticoat can take a beating. Don't be put off by aerosols! The only time you need a spray gun is for good coverage, a good even fan, which isn't important on a tube of a frame. On the other side, go buy a cheap sporay can and expect it to last a few weeks before you regret it!
1st Coat: Always use undercoat! Always really light! Plasticaot doesn't have an aluminium specific undercoat (EDIT DOES NOW, But might be hard to get??), but I haven't had a problem with bonding. Think of the 1st coat as simply roughening up the surface to stop the next coat running, you should still be able to see the metal of the frame.
2nd and after Undercoats: Get a bit thicker, I get as close to running the paint as I can. I use the "wet on wet" method for painting my frames, that means my undercoat is not fully dry between coats or before I apply the top coat. Easier I think, you don'tg give foriegn matter the chance to stick to the frame. Just allow the paint to get a bit sticky.
If you get a run, stop! Be patient, allow it to dry fully (Go have a beer and wait 10 hours or so) then sand that area back with 600 grit smooth.
Paint the little bits and nooks first. Brake line bosses, Calliper mounts, welds etc...
Keeping a "wet edge": Don't just spray here and there, your paint as it hits the frame should look smooth and wet, and as you spray in long even strokes around 20-30cm's from the frame work your way around the frame overlapping past where you last painted. The idea is not to get areas of dry overspray on yer frame.
Conditions: If it is colder than 20deg, wet, foggy etc, don't paint. Not so bad with enamels and 2k as acrylic, but still a bad idea. If your using acrylics it sucks in moisture as it dries, not such a good thing.
Just keep applying the paint! 3, 4, 5 coats, I just keep going (5 might be pushing it!!). If that can starts to feel empty, stop. As it empties too much the paint will splatter, leaving blobs on your frame. Once your happy with your finish, say check after 3 coats, then leave it hang for a day, if you like it, leave it, too much and you start to get chipping too easily.
Clear Coat: not always needed, but it does give a better shine. As far as I know the talk of it as a protective layer and being harder is just bullshit. Most cars that aren't metallic aren't clearcoated. Clearcoat is used over metallics, for the sole reason to prevent the metal in the paint from dulling due to oxidisation. While we talk of clear, it is a real pain to wet edge. Try lights (halogen) and moving your head around to see the wet edge on the paint.
It is possible to get a really smooth paint job by sanding between your primer and top coat with a 800 wet and dry, with plasticoat this isn't really benificial, and I prefer the wet on wet all the way. Even on non metallic paints you can sand the top coat with even a 100 grit, again, compromise the bonding of paint.
Never ever sand metallic (before the clear). You will simply flatten and dull the metal flakes, wait until you have applied the clear and let it dry before you sand. At that stage very lightly with 1500 grit wet and dry and a running hose is the trick. Then a good quality cut and polish, followed by a organic based wax. Don't even start to sand the clear until a week after applying, allowing it to harden completely.
If it is a touch on the cool side, flog the heaters and hang your freshly painted frame up to bake it a little (10 hours is sweet).
Protective gear: A well ventilated, but not breezy area. A proper spray painting mask, silver lined gloves, long sleeve shirt, pants, shoes, and a cap or something to stop overspray from geting into your hair.
The last frame I painted I didn't wear shoes, the overspray settling to the garage floor stuck to my feet before it dried and was a pain to scrub off
Hope this helps! have fun!
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by Fitz on -
Why not just try it and see.
I've never head of any stories of catastrophic dissasters involving skategear and a spraycan. worsecase scenario you scrub it off.
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Permalink Reply by Emily on
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get it powder coated? Should be really fucking cheap to get trucks done, and it wont chip easy. Do not use Montana gold its not durable it will chip off so easily also is pretty thick no matter what cap you are using and that range doesn't have as good colours as montana hardcore, rust paint would be better.
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