Slalom bushings setups

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ASRA AdminPermalink Reply by Bugs on September 24, 2011 at 21:18

59kg is light, so I'd make the front much softer - you could have two white Khiros. Having soft bushings really makes slalom easier, and it doesn't feel unstable after a short while.

With a Randal at 28 deg on the back, keep the bushings firm - I'd suggest green Venoms, or even green/pink for higher speeds. I like the harder bushing roadside on the back truck.

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Permalink Reply by Cents on September 24, 2011 at 21:39

Hrmm I'd rather give something else rather than khiros a go (I'm a gear whore I want to try anything and everything). The whites are very gooey thus I was thinking of getting some reflex barrels to make the return to center more snappy. 

Is it important to have a harder board side bushing? i.e having 2 x 74a reflex in comparison to a 74 and a 77. And what does the size difference in duro's give to the ride? 

Also I'll be looking into replacing the current kingpin with something with less thread as my bushings are getting destroyed! For slalom is it important to glue the pin in using something like locktite?

 

 

 

 

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ASRA AdminPermalink Reply by Bugs on September 24, 2011 at 21:59

White Khiros are gooey and lack rebound, but it's hard to find something as soft. If you can, go for it.

I don't think it's important to have the harder bushing boardside. Experiment and see what works for you. I usually have harder bushing boardside on the front, but roadside on the rear, but I also tend to have the same bushing on both sides. It isn't a big deal.

I've never bothered to glue the kingpin in. I don't see what the point would be.

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Permalink Reply by Cents on September 24, 2011 at 22:08

For my previous pumpers I've had the harder on the road side to get a quicker snap to center. But I was told by Robbo that slalom riders prefer to have it the other way around to engage more of the bushings. 

 

The original bennett kingpin is glued in. All of the bennett kingpin tutorials have re-glued the replacement on in too. Was just wondering if it was necessary since randal doesn't and not doing so would save me having to wait on a tube of locktite.

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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by DA BEAR on September 24, 2011 at 22:58

Hi Cents,

Bennet kpins are a splined shank hex head, if your after a longer shank generally the thread length/shank lenght

changes btwn 2 3/4 and 3inch, the 3inch has a longer shank so get a 3inch kpin and cut it down to 2 3/4.

The refit depends on  how the baseplte deforms on removal of the original, i've made some wedge washers

up but now i just use loctite shaft fit. Clean and prime the pieces well first.

Let it set for a day before using it. You could use a 2 part epoxy but the

tolerences are ok  for a anerobic single pack.

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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by DA BEAR on September 24, 2011 at 23:01

Or you can get a 2 pack like pratley putty and plug/build up the under side of the baseplate

so the hex head doesnt spin, then you could have the kpin as easily removeable.

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Permalink Reply by Cents on September 24, 2011 at 23:10

So whats the point of having the kingpin glued in?

What do you mean by priming the pieces? Do I need to sand the metal lightly?

Which locktite number did you use and any place to get it cheap? The stuff is expensive! I have 2 part epoxy is it worth getting loctite?

*sorry about the flood of questions

@Bugs: The Hopshop has Riptide WFB Chubby Bushings which come in 68a - my mind is blown thinking about how soft these are I'll tell you how they work out.

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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by m0juu on September 24, 2011 at 23:33

chubbies are like elimz but the formula is soooo very soft, for the size and shape of the bushing chubbies still allow for alot of turn!
knowing how soft you like your setups riptides sound perfect for you bro!

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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by DA BEAR on September 24, 2011 at 23:37

You need to glue/loctite the new kpin in coz the originals stopped from rotating by the spline not the head.

The hex head in a bennett doesnt (usually) touch the sides of the baseplate.

So if you just put a bolt in it may rotate when the nuts done up.

Prime, clean it all up, sand it a bit degrease it with some acetone.

The loctite names/nums got changed 2? years ago, but ive got "shaft fit", to late to got to shed to check num.

If youve got the epoxy give that a go.

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Permalink Reply by Bozac on September 24, 2011 at 23:42

Pink reflex barrel with 2 washers between it and the baseplate felt good in my skennett teamed up with an aqua venom shr barrel. A wedged bennett doesn't need a 68a bushing to turn well and I reckon you might lose rebound at that softness. If you are chewing bushings some of the ldp guys were fitting thin tubing over the kingpin so the bushing doesn't touch the thread. I suggest pavedwave for Bennett mod tips those guys are always tinkering

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Permalink Reply by Cents on September 24, 2011 at 23:53

@Bozac Yeah thats where I got the kingpin mod idea. The thin tubing mod seemed troublesome in terms of finding the right size and modifying the bushings to accept the tubing. I'll talk to Robbo about it probably go with the 73a ones. 

@Da Bear and Bugs thanks for your advice

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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by Marek on September 25, 2011 at 11:10

Ahh i love a good slalom tech thread on a Sunday morning. I havnt seen that paved wave tubing tip but you could try heat shrink tubing from any electronics shop jaycar etc.

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