Adam's Comments

Tips. read this from start to finish. Its long but answers pretty much everything

http://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/longboard-board-building/67988-fiberglassing-without-bag-101-a.html

Get good quality epoxy from a boat shop (its cheaper also). Experiment! Fibreglassing is one of those things you just have to do for yourself.

See if you can get the epoxy in pump packs that way mixing is easy - 2 pumps of epoxy and one pump hardner or whatever the ratio is. Get a pack of 100 disposable gloves some plastic cups and paddle pop sticks for mixing

And finally make sure you cover yourself up and wear a quality dust mask when sanding back your edges. trust me if you don't you will be scratching yourself like crazy for weeks.

Adam,

a decent set will set you back close to $200, a reasonable set around $130 to $150. Trouble with pads is you need to try them on to see if they fit and are comfortable. Do Joe's fit you? If so what are they and what size?

Cheers mate

Ado

Haha! Yeah the lads up on the goldie came up with Fitz-Tek. Actually I think it was Steve.
Yeah being a Toolmaker and CAD technician helps but really you just gotta get in, have a go at doing stuff for yourself, ask lots of different people questions and try lots of different things. I'm still learning new stuff all the time.

Yep, it's me. Looks good

Hey Adam,
No need to prime the timber.
Just rough it up with some coarse sand paper. The rougher the better.
Keep it really clean even if you have to sand some back. You don't want it really smooth.
Make sure there isn't any coating on the timber, this will stop the glue from soaking into the grain.
You want it rough so the glue can soak into the timber and fuse the glass to the wood rather than just being a layer on top which can eventually just peel off.
If the scratches are really rough they will show through the glass but like you said your gonna paint it right?

light surfboard glass will really just seal it rather then give it any strength, once you have rough cut it see where and how it flexes then i can tell you how to stiffen it up, i press my boards all in one hit, glass/carbon bamboo, that guy in eumundi has 4mm bamboo only, it wont bend around the curves you have there and is prone to splitting even on a mild concave, when i am forced to buy from him i then plane it down to 2 mm at least depending on the board im building, i have a few boards similar to what your trying here pressed out of a new mould, am currently pressing a good run of them and will have them for sale here on asra in a week or so.

hey ya Adam, I'm more of a deck grafix / custom paint job guy ( good with paints and clear finishes) than a deck builder...
when you get to these questions give me a buzz/mssg
happy to banter
Cheers
Paul.

1.8mm ply is good. I used 1.5mm on my drop deck. Your mold plan looks really good but remember the ply will only bend so much. Company's like rayne use massive amounts of pressure to get those 3d bends, this is hard to recreate in the garage with just clamps. Give it a shot though you might be supprised
You can use fibreglass epoxy for glue or any water resistant pva look at bunnings. Use 7 sheets if your just having a ply deck

Hi Adam, I replied to your questions in the board builders forum. In response to your other questions. that deck I made has about 15mm snappy flex under my 95kg. So its on the firmer side but I could make it more flexy by using less fibreglass. I live in Shellharbour NSW and that board is only my second that I have built so your not far behind me.

It looks alright that deal, It still is a pretty flexy board though, a mate had one who i skate with in the city though he is pretty light, i would say the other board the guy was offering over asra would have less flex. Depends if you wanted to still go with a flexy board like your one before. It is a good deal though. You'll find most of the sector nine boards are flexy and made for the longboarding cruizing scene, there is a couple of topmount boards that people race on.

Yeah i reckon it is a good deal especially for a complete, you won't find a price like that on any other website. Even if you grow out of the deck or don't like it, you still only paid say 50 bucks for trucks which are a good brand and 50 bucks for wheels. You can always sell the deck later on and have a spare set of wheels and trucks. Also i think the deck is perfect it has a slight bit of flex it says, so your going to feel comfy on it because of the deck you have now, but its still going to be sold to bomb some hills on and take some corners. And the freight will be alll good trust me if someone rips you off over ASRA everyone will know and its a pretty small and tight communtiy. The wheels on your board can be lathed down but you would need a metal lathe. but you could try just rotating the wheels around like the front to back back to front so on. It would be because of alll the slides you do on the same side i would day. i might have some cheapo wheels for ya wehn we get back to school that still have alot of grip but can slide.

hey mate howzit going?? no im not actually from glyde as you may already know i just ride for them..im not too sure if there wil be any decks available for a few weeks hes had a stuff up with the timber order but dont worry the rad range of decks will be back on the scene bigger and better than ever real soon...cheers mate leeso

haha Hmm I wouldn't think so, Pete has a few decks but he rides most of them or has a use for them and they would still be over the 100 dollar mark. You could try putting up a forum asking if anyone has a deck there willing to sell, you might get a baragin there!!!