ASRA - Australian Skateboard Racing Association

hey
i was just woundering what lube i should use for my bearings. i am a first timer at cleaning them and using information from other discussions i need some lube and petrol. have i got that right?
any good brands? or alternatives?
needs to be relatively cheap
thanks heaps

Tags: bearings, lube

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hard to say, seems just as good, but doesn't leak like oil and collect dust and grit. presumably doesn't heat up the same way that oils would, but whether that means it doesn't cool down the same way who knows...
and the winning answer is.......

Fitz said:
if you like cleaning bearings - thin oil like speed cream or singer oil.
if you hate cleaning bearings- grease
if you don't mind going a bit slower than fastest - grease
if you like going fast and hate cleaning bearings - too bad you're stuck with buying new ones all the time.
I've always used graphite powder, well not always. I've always gone back to graphite, keeps bearings clean and fast. Since 1973. God I'm old.

Ben Shane said:
Oh.. a guy at the hardware store tried to sell it to me but i was like "what? dry lubricant? err.. no thanks"

how does it feel compared to normal lube?

Brad B said:
It's a "dry" lubricant - used in padlocks and other precision devices where you don't want grit to collect. Every hardware carries it - I've had/used my (same) container for 20+ years so don't use much else ,)
pretty much the same compound that you find in a pencil.

Murdox said:
what as lube?
how would that work?
where do you buy it from?

Brad B said:
i've always used graphite powder - and almost never have to clean my bearings as it doesn't collect dirt/ dust/ grit ,)
SKF also make sick ass bearings.

DA BEAR said:

I've been using this for the last couple of months in my Biltins,
mainly cos Biltins are a single shield and really open compared to twin seals,
my theory/hope is the grease will fill some of the gap btwn the races and shield.
But, over $50 for 180grm.
Wayne.
Yeah graphite is actually really good for speed in small doses but offers no protection against rust out and the ever feared blowout from high speeds on long runs. Any sign of moisture, even without going through a puddle. On a humid day graphite does nothing against rust.

The other important factor is, if you slide or drift your wheels, don't even bother lubing them. Don't waste your time even cleaning them. The damage you do is irreversible, no matter what lube you use they will always remain thrashed bearings.

Bert Bruijn said:
I've always used graphite powder, well not always. I've always gone back to graphite, keeps bearings clean and fast. Since 1973. God I'm old.

Ben Shane said:
Oh.. a guy at the hardware store tried to sell it to me but i was like "what? dry lubricant? err.. no thanks"

how does it feel compared to normal lube?

Brad B said:
It's a "dry" lubricant - used in padlocks and other precision devices where you don't want grit to collect. Every hardware carries it - I've had/used my (same) container for 20+ years so don't use much else ,)
pretty much the same compound that you find in a pencil.

Murdox said:
what as lube?
how would that work?
where do you buy it from?

Brad B said:
i've always used graphite powder - and almost never have to clean my bearings as it doesn't collect dirt/ dust/ grit ,)
This is a bit off the topic, but fitz you wouldn't happen to know how to make pricision spacers would you? or anything about them along those lines.
Yeah I've done them before but they're a bit of a wank in my opinion. So long as you use any type of spacer and don't over crank the wheelnut you're fine.
Chappy's buitins are the real deal. Although I prefer ceramic for the long life.

Work on your tuck and corner technique before worrying about bearings. Took me ages to work that one out.

Joe said:
This is a bit off the topic, but fitz you wouldn't happen to know how to make pricision spacers would you? or anything about them along those lines.
Yeahh i have always had to tighten my wheels nuts up slowly, even with spacers and washers to find the sweet spot. wheels have always been one of my picky things, like i usually always roll clean bearings and buy bearings often just for that brand new feel, as well as spacers and washers. Also like to check them before a session, just so there tightened perfect and so on. I thought that extra precise cut of the spacer would just add that extra touch, roll smoother, longer......, i mean people buy precision trucks for the ride.

Fitz said:
Yeah I've done them before but they're a bit of a wank in my opinion. So long as you use any type of spacer and don't over crank the wheelnut you're fine.
Chappy's buitins are the real deal. Although I prefer ceramic for the long life. Work on your tuck and corner technique before worrying about bearings. Took me ages to work that one out.
Joe said:
This is a bit off the topic, but fitz you wouldn't happen to know how to make pricision spacers would you? or anything about them along those lines.
my bears are weird, (while we're on the topic of not over cranking) I crank the axle nut as tight as it will go and that's the sweet spot for them, it was really surprising.
Fitz: The other important factor is, if you slide or drift your wheels, don't even bother lubing them. Don't waste your time even cleaning them. The damage you do is irreversible, no matter what lube you use they will always remain thrashed bearings.

pfft i do clean them, but they are just $15 bearings from China on eBay
how long would you say they would last lubed with speed cream, as i am VERY close to the beach. i only slide a little bit, i'm more of a slalomer and bomber

btw thanks for all the feedback guys and girls. so far my method is cleaning with metho in different stages, then air dry, then lube. and they aren't too bad i must say. so far i got my $15 out of these!

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