ASRA - Australian Skateboard Racing Association

i'm intending to convert my chopped S9 Bombhills deck into a 6 wheeler and i've got a couple of questions. So far, i've decided on 2 randal DH hangers on 50* plates up front and a dewedged 161mm tracker RTS in rear. The front 4 wheels will be 69mm offset sector 9 RF wheels. I'm having trouble deciding on the 2 rear wheels and its a toss up between 70mm pink zigs, 70mm Venom Shockers or 69mm Pocket pistol racer X cone crushers. If i did choose a 70mm wheel, would the 0.5mm difference in height be enough to have a bad effect on the ride as 6 wheelers require all wheels to be level? My second question is, does anyone know how much i should dewedge and/or riser the RTS to match the height of the randal DH's?

All help is greatly appreciated
Cheers, Stephen

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The second truck (innermost) is usually set 5mm higher so when you go straight it doesn't touch the ground. When you lean into a corner the 5mm gap comes down so the extra truck only grips the ground when you need it most, during a turn.
You can adjust the heights with riser pads. This method is used alot with street lugers.
That really is an unusual setup. What effect are you trying to achieve?
The effect that i’m trying to achieve is A LOT of grip with the 6 wheels and stability with the conventional geometry rear truck. I heard that having a randal style front truck and an indy style rear was less probe to wobbles due to the “pull-pull” effect. If you think about the geometry of the trucks then you’ll see that a randal rear truck is ‘pushed’ along while an indy is ‘pulled’. I'm not very good at explaining things but it makes sense to me and several people are now running dh setups in this way. I chose to use an RTS rear because of its popularity as a good inexpensive rear truck for slalom. I also felt that indy’s turned too much as a rear truck even when dewedged.
stephen.mhsrider said:
If you think about the geometry of the trucks then you’ll see that a randal rear truck is ‘pushed’ along while an indy is ‘pulled’. I'm not very good at explaining things but it makes sense to me and several people are now running dh setups in this way. I chose to use an RTS rear because of its popularity as a good inexpensive rear truck for slalom.
I hear you dude, This can be achieved with reverse kingpin truck if you have them arrange like tarantular trucks. Mounted on top of the deck backwards.
I've wanted to make a hanger like that for ages but tarantular built a lame ass version and beat me to the line.
so fitz do you think my setup will work as i plan or if there is anything i should change etc?
stephen.mhsrider said:
so fitz do you think my setup will work as i plan or if there is anything i should change etc?
You're gonna have to try it and see mate. That's half the fun of it!
Take some advise from here and there. Try it, if it's shit, then remember what you didn't like about it and change it to suit you.
Always remember. You're the one that's gotta ride it.
There's nothing wrong with bombing on convensional trucks.
Just make sure you've got the ability to ride the hill or the safety gear to practice it, eat shit and try again.
Stephen,

Clayski has an amazing 6 wheeler as mentioned above. The secret is to ensure that when you stand on the board the flex doesn't force the front front truck off the ground (this happens if the back front truck is mounted too low) the other secret is to have the back front truck about 3 degrees less wedged than the front front one this allows for the different turning circles for the shorter wheelbases. You need to have the front trucks as close together as possible without the wheels touching but leave enough space so that small bits of gravel don't jam the wheels (so about 5mm between the wheels is good) this means you need to decide on the size of the wheels before you drill your deck for the trucks. I have a 6 wheeler as well but mine is a slalom rather than DH setup and has 4 rear wheels for traction and that is a whole different kettle of fish (;-)>

Cheers

Ado
so ado, if i dewedge the rear front truck by about 3 degrees, should i riser the front front truck to equalise the height? Im kind of confused about whether to have it so that all 6 wheels are touching the ground at the same time or to only have the 2 front wheels to grip the ground in a turn.
The deck is going to flex, and it'll flex more during the middle of a turn, when the G-force is greater, than it will when going straight. The amount of flex will change constantly throughout your turns.

When the deck flexes, the "inner" front truck will become closer to the ground, and the "outer" front truck further from the ground. You're gonna need to adjust the heights of these two trucks to find the happy medium, where they both have more or less the same amount of pressure on them at the point of the turn where you want that to occur.

The stiffer the deck, the easier the exercise will be, but I don't think it'll ever be easy. I imagine you'd need to have the wheels of the "inner" truck up off the ground while you're running straight, so that when the deck flexes during a turn they hit the ground with pressure equal to the wheels of the "outer" truck. But you then might have issues with whether the "spin-up" of those inner truck wheels from zero will slow you down at every turn.

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