ASRA - Australian Skateboard Racing Association

Time to make some slide gloves!

 

I have:

 

*) Old chopping boards

*) Clamp + hacksaw (I was most of the way through cutting up the board when the blade broke... doh!)

*) Sweet leather gloves

*) Velcro

*) Internet how-to

 

I have a couple of questions though.

 

1) The guides I've read suggest reinforcing the bond between velcro and glove/puck with some sort of glue.  Apparently Shoe Goo is the way to go.  I don't have any of that.  I was thinking of just using araldite, anyone know if that'd work ok?

 

2) I want to buy some proper pucks, as well as the home made ones (see q3). However, in order for them to work with my gloves, I need to get the velcro on the right way round!  Is there some sort of convention as to whether the hooks or the loops go on the glove?

 

3) As mentioned - I want to buy some proper pucks as well (mostly to check what the difference is).  Can anyone recommend some good but cheap ones?  ATM, the vault brand ones from skate board express seem to be the cheapest ($15 for a set).

 

Thanks !

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I have used Shelly's quick dry Araldite epoxy - I can say that whilst it is some what brittle since the puck is solid that won't be a major issue (so long as the surface of the glove is smooth). I've done this on 6 sets of gloves and all work perfectly (the gloves have shredded first).

 

I find smooth carpark surfaces to be difficult to slid on as the floor is "sticky". Find nice smooth ashphalt with a good slope and you'll be fine. (remember go fast!)

Get some selleys concrete nails that is what i have used and only lost a thumb in half of year of sliding!!!
SLIPPERY DIPS!!!!!!!!!
THAT IS SO GOOD!!! photoshop is so hes smokin some slipperies?>

@beet - wife takes care of that... no need to have any on my hands ;-)

 

Slippery dips have arrived!! woo!  Now to try to slide my totally non sliding setup board :)

woooo!  I had a ball at my inlaws place on Saturday, the street they live on is perfect (wide, quiet and with a gentle slope).

 

I got some toeside shutdowns and 180s happening!  Any advice on how to do a heelside slide?  It feel really awkward, like I'm just falling off the board, no real control...

This is common in the beginning. Set up the slide by doing a toe side carve. Begin the return carve to get ready for the slide. Get down low and drop your back knee down whilst keeping the heel on the board (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcQpcvkylGs&playnext=1&list=... - if you want to do a pendy have your legs like that keep the back knee down!). COMMIT to your puck and just kick - placing your hand down should carve your board even further heelside and you should kick out (HARD) when you are around 45* (just an estimate). If you feel like you are just carving and falling off 1. you are kicking out too late 2. not commiting 3. not using your hips ie. not looking down hill/keeping you shoulders facing downhill. Finally YOU ARE NOT GOING FAST ENOUGH your wheels seem new you need to break them in. If you want you can cheat by twisting in for your set up carve and swinging your shoulders around for the slide (but you'll probably end in switch)

thanks Cents!

 

I haven't managed to do a pendy yet, my slides either just shutdown, or I end up doing a 180 and skating switch ...  Probably due to a lack of speed (and really grippy wheels).  I'm happy to keep building up slowly, getting the hang of controlling my slide first before I try to pendy, etc.

 

 

A coleman (heelside) pendy is all about your form. There's a lot of advice on twisting your hips and sucking the board back in but the actual truth is that if you are in the right position the road will push the board back under your feet (though you have the have a bit of speed). So I'm not telling you to do something advanced just how you should be setting up the slide correctly. If you think about it a slide works by partially unweighting the back truck to allow it to slide out easier. Having your back knee dropped like in the video focuses more weight on your front foot. It also makes sense because if you don't have your legs like that....how are you going to kick out and around? If you keep your knees up and parallel its more difficult getting that rotational kick to get the board sideways without swinging your shoulders. So if you are going to do it....do it right so you don't have to fix it later on? (not that having your legs parallel when sliding is bad - you need it to lock in a shut down but yeah you'll pick it up as you go)

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