ASRA - Australian Skateboard Racing Association

Seems theres a bit of interest in these so if you want one for your board i can make one. Just need a template of the nose section (paper, wood) It is better to have the deck to get it perfect.

 

OK HERES HOW IT WORKS, You send me a paper template, Youll need a peice about 200 x 200. Take the front truck off your board and place paper, or perefably light carboard under the nose and past the truck holes. Trace it, Truck cutout and holes, and make sure its correct cause i will use that as the actuall template by glueing it to my Alum base plate (then i will weld the actuall guard to that) I will also need to know the thickness of your deck, most important..

It is better if i can get your deck or the actuall model deck to make it with, so for those in the Shire im in Caringbah, you can drop it off.

Post the template to: 

Colin Olive  

623 Port Hacking rd  

Caringbah

NSW, 2229

 

Give me a buzz and tell me its on its way 0418672600.... Price $25....ill post for free.


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These look awesome. Excellent workmanship.

Only thing I could add is that there should be plenty of gap petween the bold and the holes in the nose guard. Possibility of the guard impacting on the bold when it is hit. This could snap or weaken the bolt if there is no gap to allow for any movement. You may have already thought of this as the hole looks quite large.

Sorry, it is the engineering coming out in me. Just had to comment.

I also noticed that with your board the front two bolts attached to the nose guard seem to be scraping the hanger. Is this just because of the shape of the chargers?

But otherwise these look sweet.

another thing. for the nose guard to absorb the shock having a rubber insert and longer holes in the plate allowing them to slide should have better, long lasting results
so slots? instead of straight up holes

Michael English said:
another thing. for the nose guard to absorb the shock having a rubber insert and longer holes in the plate allowing them to slide should have better, long lasting results
yepp so the impact isnt getting transferred straight to the bolts

James "m0juu" Crisologo said:
so slots? instead of straight up holes

Michael English said:
another thing. for the nose guard to absorb the shock having a rubber insert and longer holes in the plate allowing them to slide should have better, long lasting results
I also thought of an elongated hole. But this only works if the impact is straight on. There might still be some transfer of the impact to the bolts if the impact is off centre to front on. A rubber insert behind the guard will only allow for a greater movement of the guard, making it possible that it will work the bolts loose and add pressure to the bolts. A tightly fitting nose guard around the nose is better. Maybe having separate holes drilled in the deck for the guard may be a better idea.

Michael English said:
yepp so the impact isnt getting transferred straight to the bolts

James "m0juu" Crisologo said:
so slots? instead of straight up holes

Michael English said:
another thing. for the nose guard to absorb the shock having a rubber insert and longer holes in the plate allowing them to slide should have better, long lasting results
I can custom make whatever you want,

Ben Shane said:

could you do it so it attaches to 4 bolt holes? =] =] =] 

do you have access to a Earthwing Supermodel? or Avenger? =] =] =] 

 

I'm out of the country Atm, but i'm super keen and will get some when i get back!

This would just send the impact into another designated part of the board,  and I personally wouldn't be putting another two or four holes in my board!

 

If it goes to the four bolt holes, longer holes and a rubber inserts, it will firstly, take some impact and send it to the bolts, then slide inwards a little if the impact is huge and then, instead of applying pressure to one spot of the rubber, distribute it all over the nose: thus, doing its job.

This design would only work properly if attached to four bolts, otherwise it will be able to pivot a little to each side on impact, making the force not evenly spread...

 

Have a look at the BombSquad ones, they work a treat, just cost a ton to ship!

All depends on the deck, modern topmounts would be difficult as the truck position generally leaves no real estate on the front. Dropthrough is easier as you would generally have some space. Would also need to source sex bolts to hold it in if you do that. While I stock sex bolts i can't remember where I got them from. To use truck bolt holes topmount would have to mount from the top of the deck and dropthrough from the bottom, if you use deck bolts for one and sex bolts for the other than both could mount from the bottom

 

It would not be difficult to add some rubber maybe 4mm or even thick double sided tape to the front part. Maybe wait till you come to the shop and have a look at all the main boards and design on a case by case basis or just have a general topmount and a dropthrough design


Col said:

OK im thinking about screwing the guard directly to the deck and not using the truck bolts. What do you guys think?

any chance you could make one of these for a rayne vendetta? it will be a bit awkward due to the nose and tail forming a slight kick shape instead of being flat. wish i had seen this post earlier, i was just out your way on the weekend and could have brought my decks along for you to get a few templates done
hey mate have u got 925 templates
yer shouldnt b a problem, ill be go into the hop shop soon to check all the decks out

Bozac said:
any chance you could make one of these for a rayne vendetta? it will be a bit awkward due to the nose and tail forming a slight kick shape instead of being flat. wish i had seen this post earlier, i was just out your way on the weekend and could have brought my decks along for you to get a few templates done

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