Aussie S'Fish Thread
The alternative to the Aussie thread on Silverfishlongboarding
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by leighgriffiths on
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Joe, polycarb is super thin and bendable. its nothing like acrylic basically, only that it can be transparent. you won't need to heat up the polycarbonate. its so easy to bend into shape, but of course the thicker it is the harder it will be to bend.
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Permalink Reply by Joe on
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really Leigh so what thickness would be about not super flexy but not super hard?
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Permalink Reply by nick on
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Well I'm finding any excuse to get away from revision so here goes.
Get a torch or light box if you have one. Place helmet over the top and sticky tape two pieces of A4 paper together. They can then be sticky taped onto the helmet. From here turn on the light source and there should be a clearly defined black line where the face opening of the helmet stops. Trace with a whiteboard marker (stolen from school for best results) or texta. Then make two small circles where the visor holes are. Providing you have a mtb helmet the sun visor that goes on the front should be connected by at least two sturdy holes.
Take the piece of paper off and trace roughly 1 cm around the whole shape. Where it comes up to the chin guard you might have to do some adjusting to get the extra length right. You will also have to make two little 'tabs' to go up to the holes. I'll get some pics in a tic.
Cut out the shape and trace onto polycarb. Cut out with aviation snips or stanley knife. BEWARE. stanley knife will take you several lifetimes and will result in a few cuts into the visor itself. (I had to heat mine up over the stove then cut).
Next drill the holes as indicated on tabs. Might be best to double check fitting before drilling.
When you bolt it to the helmet it probably wont conform to the helmets shape very well. I used a paint stripper heat gun but a hair dryer should do fine. Move it slowly and evenly around the polycarb and if necessary evenly push it into shape. The cm below and to either side of the chin guard should give room to place velcro (cheap as chips 2.50 = uber good stuff). place some Velcro on the corresponding area of the visor and whammo. You're done.
Hey matty guess what came in the mail yesterday.
orangabangers. 70mm as well. The dseed will be a low slidey mofo before long :]. I'm gonna come out this sunday leathers or not. Its gonna be wicked to meet jacko.
Phew there goes 10 mins of revision XD
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Okk sounds good kooky thanks.
kookyfish said:yeah pretty much Joe or for more variety you could go to a safety gear store . good stuff in those places,
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I would try and avoid doing that kooky (sliding otangs straight out of the box). It will make the wheels way more prone to chunking. Im not sure but there was recently a thread on silverfish about breaking in wheels quickly. One guy used acetone to 'shine them up'. Im not sure if that is going to do anything but alter the chemical structure of the wheel but there were some good methods.
When are you getting them? Which ones?
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Oh yeah i just got purple otangs and from one day of solid dh an hard carving they are already nearly worn right in!
nick_21 said:I would try and avoid doing that kooky (sliding otangs straight out of the box). It will make the wheels way more prone to chunking. Im not sure but there was recently a thread on silverfish about breaking in wheels quickly. One guy used acetone to 'shine them up'. Im not sure if that is going to do anything but alter the chemical structure of the wheel but there were some good methods.
When are you getting them? Which ones?
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by Jacko on -
sliding wheels 'straight out of the box' will not make them more prone to chunking...
one word of advice... never go off anything silver-fags have to say. They are all a bunch of nerdy longboard geeks who read OTHER forums and get all this info and then think they know 100% about everything to do with longboarding. Sure u can slide otangs straight from the box. Might be a bit harder than wearing them in first but u can still do it. u can do that with any wheel, some are just easier to slide than others =)
oh an by the way, a set of wheels 'broken in' for sliding is when the inside edge is pretty damned curved/coned... you can ride your wheels for a few hard DH sessions and carve the fark out of them and they still will be in near tip-top condition... its when that inside edge becomes nice and curved that the traction will start to break loose.
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