Board Builders

1/5th of the way done to my next deck!!

stoked on the new shape!!!

btw, seeing how we go with rounded rails........

would this kind of foam be ok for making a dimm press? http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/foam/foam-memory-foam-cut-foam/high-d...

the high density or premium high density

is high density foam better for it or worse?

No, it needs to be hard, not soft at all.

Even polystyrene (vege boxes) would be better.

Umm im no expert on building, I have only made boards with bunnings wood so far I will use better woods when i get better at building.

How much does it cost at ottos?

they sell 1200x600 3mm sheets of hoop pine for around $20-$30 bucks each

coupla extra bucks will get you marine ply (gaboon mahogany).

Better timber, waterproof glue.

Sometimes cheaper to buy a full sheet (2400x1200) and just ask them to cut it into 1200x300 pieces long-grain. Enough for 2x wide decks decks 1m long max.

or 1200x 240 for 1.2m  long thicker/stiffer dancer style deck.

 Then they can go straight into the press.

@ fitz yea but where is somewhere that they sell that in adelaide?

@ ant where do you buy your glue?

Just ring around and ask. Prob take you half hr max.

Ply

@ george how much did u pay for your board?

@charlie i get my glue from ottos as well

A half sheet of 4mm marine ply will cost you $50 from ottos timber.  thats 1200 by 1200. i can take 4 blank pieces lengthwise and 1 along the bottom.

but ive found the best way to buy is like 2400 by 600 or something like that size then you get 4 blanks to put in the press and nearly no waste and its bit cheaper

never use the piece going along the bottom (short grain).

It adds extra thickness (weight) for very little to no stiffness gain.

Ply board already has cross plys to stop your deck splitting up the middle.

you pretty much only have to worry about cross plys when your working with veneer..

btw, how many of you guys have worked with a stringer design,

i was thinking of having like a 9mm veneer deck, that would be too weak to ride just like that, then adding veneers in a stringer design on the bottom...

what do you guys think???

Do any of u guys use a vac bag? If so, where do u get the foam for the mold from?

Thanks

make it 50 broskies

you cant even buy decent prelam for 20 bucks...

never mind adhesive or finishes...

mah babie's in the mold and dryin up quick

gonna be heaps of fun.... ;)

Yeah $50 build off is much more achievable... $20 is nothing!

I started a ghetto deck last weekend which I might enter if I can finish it over Easter.

board is cut, sanded and rounded up,

all that needs to come is the varnish and graphic

ooooldschooool......

my first build

just built a tandem inline butt board curved, 2100mm long, 300mm wide, but 475mm if you include foot and hand rails.

With me and my mate combined weight 160kg+.......this thing flies. We have hit speeds close to 100kmhr, We'v had to totally rethink how to ride the board. Its pretty much the same as ridding a single butt board except the pillion mustn't break unless the front rider starts double breaking. The bloke at the front is literally at the controls; Approach speed in to corners and when to lead with the inside leg,the pillion follows suit plus helps with leaning but not breaking. Have 70mm wheels 83a, with ceramic bearings with 100 duro bushes, two trucks only. Its incredible when you get it to slide in tight corners. Have a small head rest so the pillion can see a little over the front rider. Weight distribution is 60/40 to the front when flying but that can change up to 40/60  (which is dangerous) when double breaking. The front rider mustn't sit up above speeds of 30kmhr.

It corners surprisingly well and holds a straight line with small leg input from the front rider to correct the line. Still a few creases yet to iron out. All going well hope to have a video clip up next weekend. Im planning to put a pillion on the back that has no experience in ridding,with a few instructions on Do's and don'ts Im sure they will like it.....couple of slow runs at first. 

wow tht makes the picture look weird

how do you cut the holes for a drop though?? i cant seem to work it out

Why is my new deck slower?

I built a drop down fiberglass construction and its noticably slower than my old top mount stiff aluminium thing.

Wheel base is maybe an inch shorter on the new one, and its definately softer/spongier, it probably weighs about the same too.

Everything else is the same, trucks, wheels bearings and even the hill.

I put it down to the softness but dont really understand why this makes it slower.

can anyone tell me were some good veener is around the brisbane area ??? cheers

heres my mould

http://www.skateboardracing.org.au/photo/board-concave-mould?xg_sou...

No build off entries?

colby

your imagining things with your deck being slower

there is no physical way that the deck could make you slower unless it had enough surface drag to affect your aerodynamics...

its in ya mind...

Think maybe it was that the road was a little damp (not wet just damp).  Being damp it was also a bit cooler so I would have had a jacket on, comparing that to just a T-shirt would make a bit of differece too.  After a bit more testing it does seem the same.