Board Builders

I assume he means autodesk inventor which is a 3d design computer program.

Marcus S: The canadian maple is from Briggs Veneers, Sydney

Yea we use them at school aha

thanks Sam

yup autodesk inventor.

punch in some parameters like length, kick angles, concave profile... and it (eventually) spits out a model of a mold for the deck.

have also used briggs for maple, not totally happy with the quality but its good enough and there aint much choice

Here is the board i just made, sorry about the low quality pics, its based on the grease hammer and has alot of concave

Setup

Slant trucks with stock bushings

venom wheels (not sure what size or durometer)

My second board. Approx 32" x 10" 1/2" cave. only roughly shaped

this is my second board it is made mostly out of fibre-glass. it is 34" x 10'' and 1/2" of concave. It is based off the comet D2 with a few adjustments made to make it suit me.

yeah Marcus, Graphic is looking rad! was that a puska creation? or a print? either way looking great 

That graphic is super cool. probably better thansome production boards!!!

also, love the look of the concave!!!

my sister hand painted the graphic on the board, it is one of her little creations. 

Adam the boards you built are zoo good they look professional.

No not yet Adam! ill check them out now!!

Hey i've just pressed my board for 72h (hoop pine marine grade 3mm ply, 4plys), when I took it out of the press the board lost all of its concave that i had pressed into it and i had pressed in steep concave. I have now used fiberglass resin and pressed it even steeper. any suggestions on what i should do so keep the concave. It is also flaxy is there anyway i can stop that?

What glue where you using that seems to be the problem?
boards usually loose a little concave after pressing.
What measurement where you looking for and what did you get ?
a 12ply board (4*3ply) shouldnt be flexy whats the wheelbase?
what kind of press are you using?

the more info you give the easier it will be to diagnose the problem 
 

yeah definitely must be the glue man, i can press for boards for 18 hours and their sweet to take out and work on 

"toby hampson"

i had the same problem with my board when i pressed it the concave flexed out because i used contact adhesive and that is a non water based glue. when you press it you need to use a water based product like wood pva because that is a wet glue. when it drys it will dry hard and won't flex out because it also wets the timber and bends it easier.this will create a god concave and will flew out minimal which should usually happen.

The best glue to use for this is titebond 3. You can get it from Carba-tec, but if there's not a Carba-tec store round you, you could get it shipped or just look for other shops that might sell it round where you live. P.S. Bunnings doesn't sell it.

Masters sells tightbond

Hey guys, this is my first post on ASRA, and I just thought id begin by posting a board I built a few weeks ago. Its the second board I've built and is a great cruiser. This was my first try at pressing a kick but using 3 4mm layers of ply turned out to be more difficult so the kick is more mellow than I would have liked although I have still found it to be sufficient. Its running on bennetts vector 5.0 with 68mm earthwing road rage wheels and is a blast to ride, very surfy ride.

This is the first board I modified.

I had this old skateboard, I used a jigsaw to cut off the top and made it into a small cruiser.

Hey all, does anyone have tips for cutting drop through mounts, thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

Hey Sam - what trucks do you want to perform the drop through for?  Many just require a straight rectangle but some (like Bears) require a mor complicated shape.

Here's one I've used for help with the cutout before.  I made up a template and use a router now instead of a jigsaw.

Most likey the drop through is going to be for some paris trucks, i will try this template and see how i go, thanks for the help

Sand it with something fine (like 180 grit or higher) until you think it's smooth enough - you could try a light coat of Builders Bog for a filler and sand that back but your gonna add weight (if that's an issue) - Use it sparingly if you do.

Has any one in the group made any dancers, talking about 55' or around that area with a bit of flex. If so would u guys have any tips ?

This is an old skateboard I had, I drilled new holes And mounted the trucks on the ends.

Then I painted it.

Witchdawg back in action.. and with a sexy new concave 

Daniel, how do you do your wheel wells they look awesome.

Hey Sam, i use a router to make my wheel wells, and then finish them off with a orbital sander, and by hand :) 

Sweet, im thinking of investing in a router

Board no. 2 for bathurst

Nice work witch doctor - red ones go faster too apparently!  is this one made with the maple from ASK?

@Deeks63 yes indeed this was made with the ASK maple, was so nice to work with! and @Adam its 8ply maple with a carbon core, 37 x 10 inch wide with wheel base options going from 25 to 26.5 .. it has a bit of weight but not too much 

Second cruiser which I made as my mates birthday present.

Nice work Travis - clean lines - looks quite solid...!

cheers, i was pleased with the outcome of this, my best board to date, pity it isn't mine haha

Latest deck done - Freeride/Speed board combo. 36"x9.75" WB 24" to 26.75"

5 ply maple - 2 layers Quad-Ax glass (1 inside, 1 roadside)