for any one who has made/modified a board. post some pics of your press or completed boards, its all good.
also, maybe share some tips on building and where to get supplies
also, occasionally, we can have a build off from time to time...
@dude, you have to email them and ask about buying some of their (dow foam) it comes in sheets of 2400mm by 60mm i think, i got mine cut into 4 pieces so thats 4 different molds. hope that helped
So dudes as it happens, my school is making a longboard club, you know like a science club... they are gonna get kids to pay for the materials and make boards, they came to me and asked 400 questions becasue im making a board for my hsc.
so i come to you with a couple..
what would be the best vineer to make a 7-8 layer generic board? what would be the most cost effective way to press or build boards? what glue would be sufficient?
For my HSC i'm building a board for myself, i already have some help with the build of the board thanks to Adam. but i was wanting to build a press like this \/\/\/\/\/\/ im wondering if anyone has used one? what wood willl be the best to use? cheers dudes
so here are the 2 homemade boards along side my daddow praxis really stoked with these 2 boards they ride amazingly, the one in the middle really is amazing at downhill through the turns and it really feels good underfoot, the one on the right loves to slide and is my fav freerider now (still have to say though that the praxis is by far and away the best DH board i have ever ridden). Anyway thanks to everyone who gave me advise while i was aming them in particular Deeks63 has been very helpful
I've laminated cross layers together before... made two cross lkaers out of 4 small sheets before without a problem - i use a vaccum press to make my boards - not sure what you're using.
I simply made sure the edges were nice and straight (and square) and ran a bead of glue along the edges, used masking tape to hold them together, and put them under something heavy for 12 hours - worked perfectly!
sorry to spam you with responses, but i wouldn't get too hung up on alternating grains too much - I only ever put in 2 cross-bands with my decks - so the are
3-long
1-cross
1-long
1-cross
2-long
I assume (using Hoop Pine) you're gonna reinforce with glass or some such weave?
Plyco - cool, I have them on my list of places to check! thanks. (I'm in Melbourne too)
that's 9 plys which should be plenty if it's 1.5mm veneer - I only use 8 with mine because I always glass/carbon fibre the bottoms (virtually the 9th ply) and they're plenty strong - I'm 95kgs and no issues at all
Its most likely not the valve. If you have done the cardboard and sprayer or bathtub thing and you have taped up all the holes, its more likely to be your sealing tape, especially if its a bit dirty. I can give you some. PM me the width of your bag and your address Holden
this has nothing to do with longboarding but does anyone know what sort of glue or what i should do if i am gluing 30cm wide sheets of pine together that are 6ft long and that would be strong enough to go in water
thanks and sorry im about to order some hoop pine would the 3mm be able to do a gradual drop? i was hoping for 2" but thinking maybe just 1" until i get some veneer. and also im 55kg im wanting a stiff deck would 4 layers of 3mm be good?
Hey guys, need to find some better wood to work with, whats the best wood and also you know of any places where i could get it? i live in NSW by the way
Hey Alex, you seem to know a lot of questions about board building and as I am new to it I would like to ask a few questions but I don't want to clog up this discussion with silly questions, mind if I message you a few questions on facebook?
When i fibre glass a board, should i cut around the edges when its still wet, or wait and cut with a jig saw? I tried with a jigsaw and the up and down motion of the saw ripped away the fibreglass :(
there's a couple of ways - I actually find it's easier to trim close to the board shortly after the resin/epoxy has just hardened but not gone rock hard - say within 30 to 60 minutes of applying. Use a sharp stanley knife - almost like when you grip a board, but don't try and cut right up against the wood/ply. then once it's gone off completely, use a sander to take it back nice and neat... The jigsaw will just rip the shit out of it as you have found.
wait until its "green" its dry but it still bends and never use a jig saw on fibre glass it will shred it to peices i suggest a stanly knife a really sharp one
Alexander, I have recently bought some 14mm ply from bunnings, how do i put w concave in it? and do you recommend using a stanley knife or a spoon to cut away the fibreglass?
14mm? w concave dude that aint never gunna happen w concaves are formed with very thin veneer sheets in a vacuum press. 14mm ply probably wont even form a concave u need to get thiner sheets and press them together and yes definately a stanley knife
sorry another thing 14mm is the average thickness of a board a 14mm ply sheet has been made to be solid in a FLAT form not bent and warped. Yes its made of thinner sheets its self but in all likelyhood it wil snap during pressing or the first ride you take on it. get yer self some 4mm or 3mm hoop pine from bunnings from memory its $32 for a 1.6m x 2.4m sheet i got 2 boards out of one sheet.
Premium Member
Daniel Witchey
@dude, http://www.styromax.com.au/ this is the company i got mine off(FOAM)
Nov 24, 2011
dude
ok, what width did you go. and as dumb as this sounds, how do you actually buy it? theres no button... :'( and sorry everyone for clogging this forum
Nov 24, 2011
Premium Member
Daniel Witchey
@dude, you have to email them and ask about buying some of their (dow foam) it comes in sheets of 2400mm by 60mm i think, i got mine cut into 4 pieces so thats 4 different molds. hope that helped
Nov 25, 2011
Alexander
this is my first ever home made board finished yesterday
Nov 26, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
Nice work Alex.
Nov 26, 2011
dude
sick board, congrats
Nov 26, 2011
Premium Member
Ian Coggan
So dudes as it happens, my school is making a longboard club, you know like a science club...
they are gonna get kids to pay for the materials and make boards, they came to me and asked 400 questions becasue im making a board for my hsc.
so i come to you with a couple..
what would be the best vineer to make a 7-8 layer generic board?
what would be the most cost effective way to press or build boards?
what glue would be sufficient?
thanks
Nov 29, 2011
Premium Member
Ian Coggan
For my HSC i'm building a board for myself, i already have some help with the build of the board thanks to Adam.

but i was wanting to build a press like this \/\/\/\/\/\/
im wondering if anyone has used one? what wood willl be the best to use?
cheers dudes
Nov 29, 2011
Alexander
so here are the 2 homemade boards along side my daddow praxis really stoked with these 2 boards they ride amazingly, the one in the middle really is amazing at downhill through the turns and it really feels good underfoot, the one on the right loves to slide and is my fav freerider now (still have to say though that the praxis is by far and away the best DH board i have ever ridden). Anyway thanks to everyone who gave me advise while i was aming them in particular Deeks63 has been very helpful
Cheers
Dec 2, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
no probs Alex!
Dec 2, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
I've laminated cross layers together before... made two cross lkaers out of 4 small sheets before without a problem - i use a vaccum press to make my boards - not sure what you're using.
I simply made sure the edges were nice and straight (and square) and ran a bead of glue along the edges, used masking tape to hold them together, and put them under something heavy for 12 hours - worked perfectly!
Dec 9, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
BTW - where did you get your Hoop Pine veneer from! desperatley trying to find a good source of the stuff myself! Deeks
Dec 9, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
sorry to spam you with responses, but i wouldn't get too hung up on alternating grains too much - I only ever put in 2 cross-bands with my decks - so the are
3-long
1-cross
1-long
1-cross
2-long
I assume (using Hoop Pine) you're gonna reinforce with glass or some such weave?
Dec 9, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
Plyco - cool, I have them on my list of places to check! thanks. (I'm in Melbourne too)
that's 9 plys which should be plenty if it's 1.5mm veneer - I only use 8 with mine because I always glass/carbon fibre the bottoms (virtually the 9th ply) and they're plenty strong - I'm 95kgs and no issues at all
This is my last board made this way http://www.skateboardracing.org.au/photo/carbon-kevlar04?context=user - you can see the two cross plys clearly
Dec 9, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
ooooh.. I see your dilema now (would help if i read it properly!) - not enough longs...
if you had one more long it would be no problem :(
Dec 9, 2011
Premium Member
Steve
With ply you don't need any crossplys, its already built in, just lay up every sheet with the grain :)
Dec 9, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
True Steve.. but I understood Holden's initial comments to indicate he had veneer...
if it's PLY, then as Steve says - lay-away!!
Dec 9, 2011
SteveC
Just make sure you use the longs on the outside,
llcccccll or lclccclcl
Dec 11, 2011
rory
too many cross its going to be flexy
Dec 11, 2011
SteveC
You want the long on the outside where it'll do the most work for you
Think I beams, hollow bones, trees that still stand with the middle rotted out etc
and with 1.5 I reckon you can get fairly complicated forms
Dec 12, 2011
Premium Member
Steve
Its most likely not the valve. If you have done the cardboard and sprayer or bathtub thing and you have taped up all the holes, its more likely to be your sealing tape, especially if its a bit dirty. I can give you some. PM me the width of your bag and your address Holden
Dec 12, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
the Carba-tec stores around Australia stock the stuff...
http://www.carbatec.com.au/
Deeks
Dec 12, 2011
Matt
this has nothing to do with longboarding but does anyone know what sort of glue or what i should do if i am gluing 30cm wide sheets of pine together that are 6ft long and that would be strong enough to go in water
Dec 12, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
Titebond III or Epoxy.
Dec 12, 2011
Matt
what sort of epoxy
Dec 12, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
West systems 105 (and 205 hardener) is good...
Dec 12, 2011
dude
hey dudes finally got some foam and glue, got a quote for a boards worth of hoop pine and it was $80! is this normal? thanks agaiin brahs
Dec 12, 2011
dude
or is marine ply cheaper? thanks
Dec 12, 2011
dude
thanks and sorry im about to order some hoop pine would the 3mm be able to do a gradual drop? i was hoping for 2" but thinking maybe just 1" until i get some veneer. and also im 55kg im wanting a stiff deck would 4 layers of 3mm be good?
Dec 13, 2011
rory
finish my custome, 14 plys of silver ash veneer , thin and rather light
dfga
Dec 20, 2011
Alexander
Dec 20, 2011
rory
thanks man , i did them with a router
Dec 20, 2011
Alexander
Dec 20, 2011
rory
yeah took me a lot practice to be able to use the router
Dec 21, 2011
Premium Member
Deeks63
Nice work Rory.
Dec 21, 2011
Cents
Great foam core tutorial series http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6jfr_IFz2E&feature=related
Dec 26, 2011
Premium Member
Daniel Witchey
Hey guys, need to find some better wood to work with, whats the best wood and also you know of any places where i could get it? i live in NSW by the way
Jan 4, 2012
Alexander
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Conrad To
Hey Alex, you seem to know a lot of questions about board building and as I am new to it I would like to ask a few questions but I don't want to clog up this discussion with silly questions, mind if I message you a few questions on facebook?
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Deeks63
clog away Conrad.. thats what the group is for...
Jan 4, 2012
rory
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Conrad To
When i fibre glass a board, should i cut around the edges when its still wet, or wait and cut with a jig saw? I tried with a jigsaw and the up and down motion of the saw ripped away the fibreglass :(
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Deeks63
there's a couple of ways - I actually find it's easier to trim close to the board shortly after the resin/epoxy has just hardened but not gone rock hard - say within 30 to 60 minutes of applying. Use a sharp stanley knife - almost like when you grip a board, but don't try and cut right up against the wood/ply. then once it's gone off completely, use a sander to take it back nice and neat... The jigsaw will just rip the shit out of it as you have found.
Jan 4, 2012
Alexander
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Conrad To
Thanks! I will try it out on my next build
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Connor Ferguson
Alexander, I have recently bought some 14mm ply from bunnings, how do i put w concave in it? and do you recommend using a stanley knife or a spoon to cut away the fibreglass?
Jan 4, 2012
Alexander
14mm? w concave dude that aint never gunna happen w concaves are formed with very thin veneer sheets in a vacuum press. 14mm ply probably wont even form a concave u need to get thiner sheets and press them together and yes definately a stanley knife
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Steve
when do you use a spoon to cut anything??
smells like troll in here...
Jan 4, 2012
Alexander
sorry another thing 14mm is the average thickness of a board a 14mm ply sheet has been made to be solid in a FLAT form not bent and warped. Yes its made of thinner sheets its self but in all likelyhood it wil snap during pressing or the first ride you take on it. get yer self some 4mm or 3mm hoop pine from bunnings from memory its $32 for a 1.6m x 2.4m sheet i got 2 boards out of one sheet.
Jan 4, 2012
Premium Member
Deeks63
me thinketh the piss is being taken...
Jan 4, 2012