Board Builders

heyy matt beautiful board man how many sheets of wood did you use and what thickness if you don't mind me asking

i used 5 sheets of 3mm

sweet so im guessing its nice and stiff

a little bit flexy im like 70 kgs

fair enough im about to start my build after newtons so im making plans and just been stuck with the flex thing but 5 sheets of 3 mm should be sweet cause im only 58 kg

yep just keep trying your boards will only get better and better as you continue building

hahaha cool im pretty excited the only problem im having now is trying to think how to make a press for a w concave freeride board'

sorry cant help you there...

Hey guys, i was wondering if anyone has tried to make a press for a w-concave. if you have could you put up some pictures or something. And also what is the best wood to make a board out of and the press? thanx

33 pages on this forum already Jayden read every one of them look at ALL of the press shots and then go from there. one concave two, three? all work the same way?

Hi Everybody...
I've been getting into building over the last year and figured it's time to finally join the group on here.

You can check out my board building history here

I've built a few pig-esque shortboards, and few different longboards.

one of my latest creations.

my new press (testing finished, new molds nearly finished)

rad!
how much for one of those jack presses???
:P

ohhh a press for a press

that would save sooo much time in the long run, I hate screwing bolts onto booka rod....

also, what are you running on the bottom of your drop through, to stop the nuts digging in? Little strips of allu or something

the jack in the press was about $100, the rest of it was another ~$500 and that was with cheap/free steel through work/trade-school.

the little strips on the drop-thru mounts were hacked off a broken chair, I need to find a better material so that i can make more of them without breaking chairs.

really thin plys, steam and butloads of pressure.

beautiful concave looks awesome

easy mate,
just get a male block of foam, shape to desired complex concave with rasps and planes and sanders and whatnot, then pour conrete onto the foam to get the female side of the concrete mold, then take out the foam, put a plastic sheet on top of the female concrete mold, then pour in concrete over that to have both sides...
easy as pie really..
just time consuming and a little expensive to start off with...

jezza
you really really really really really really really really really really dont want to use steam...
it expands and bursts the cells in the wood fibers, making the wood not only heaps weaker, but thicker...
water and steam work with woods with little to no water content, such as balsa that have a very high percentage of air, with little real substance.

In the old days they used to use steam or presoaked veneers to make the wood more flexible and less prone to splitting. It's not as bad as you say but is alot of extra unrequired work for just making a deck.
It can lead to thicker plys if left untreated however it's normally used prior to going into a heated press with mega tons of pressure which compress it back to a thinner state.
Stick with dry plys for best homemade results.

Shouldn't matter if its non linear or not. Your x-plys go against the norm anyway and every deck has them.
Like Jez said, thinner plys are the trick.

i see what your saying fitz..
1.2 - 1.6mm veneer can bend into crazy shapes!!
the mold just has to have an equal dispersion of pressure that hugs all of the wood at the same time, if there was a gap in the mold where a lot of pressure was released, then it should be much more prone to snapping in the mold....

Building a concrete mold how you desribed Mattys would create a mold that would not have equal dispersion of pressure. You cannot mold the male side directly from the female side as the width of the board needs to be accounted for otherwise radius's (radii?) of drops and concaves will be the same and they need to be different.

Thin plys lots and lots of pressure and I would sugest maybe a cut out or not much extra material around the corners of the foot platform of the blank as you could imagine this is where the greatest stress would be

ahhhh
i forgot about that steve!!!
good thinking...
yea radii

yeah good thinking steve i had planned to do something similar but i had considered that but you made me think again. i am pressing something today, experimenting with a hardwood veneer, pine veneer, carbon fibre and fibreglass combo???? wish me luck.

luck wished!

My cousin made a board with a kick in tech a while ago that he gave to me cos he didnt want it, i never ended up mounting it
but im thinking about cutting it down into like a s9 lacey shape sorta thing but im not sure if it will be strong enough.
Im thinking of putting some fibreglass on it to strengthen it a bit
should i just put 1 layer on each side?

I'm looking to make a Aluminium/Fiberglass composite. Anyone done one of these before?
I've had experience with FG doing car bodykits etc so pretty handy with it, never tried making a deck though.

hey guys, can anyone said me a link to a gd video of someone actually pressing a board? thanks

http://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/longboard-board-buildin...
crazy concave...

Jayden what press do you want to see used?

look up dim press on google
or dim mold, he goes through it pretty well, dimitri that is....

im a wanting to see i think it is a foam press. with clamps and what not. not a vacuum press.

dw guys just say both of dimis videos they r great, now i know what to do.

Is this the right stuff to fibreglass boards with? http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&...

Are these woods good? http://www.lemessurier.com.au/pages/veneers.html im not sure which one to get from there if i do.
Or this http://www.getprice.com.au/Aust-B-B-Hoop-Pine-Exterior-Plywood-4mm-...
It says 2400x1200, what measurement is that in, millimetres?
cheers

That fiberglass looks quite fine. It will give you a nice finish, but you might want 3 layers min instead of the two layers most people do.

would baltic pine or radiata pine or marine ply be any good?

would this be a good layup for a board
fibreglass
4mm hoop pine plywood
4mm hoop pine plywood
4mm hoop pine plywood
4mm hoop pine plywood
4mm hoop pine plywood
4mm hoop pine plywood
fibreglass
fibreglass
This is going to be a topmount speedboard with deep tub concave or maybe W concave
Would this be too much wood and would it be hard to press?
cheers
(also is this good plywood? http://www.boral.com.au/productcatalogue/product.aspx?product=448)
Cheers

3mm is easier to bend if you want deep tub.
5x 3mm ply is enough for flat cave up to 85kg rider.
Can use 1 less if you use deep eliptic cave + glass.

Gaboon Mahogany (Marine ply) is great to use. Coupla bucks more than hoop but stronger.

My friend made a deck using bunnings blackwood ply and his board worked pretty well and he only used three ply( look at Julian Rech's photos)
I might just use that seeing as its my first board and i dont want to stuff it up with expensive wood.
Would 5 plys of that be alright for me im a tiny little kid like 40kg and 1 layer fibreglass on top, two on the bottom?
What exactly is the stuff you put on the fibreglass, i know its epoxy resin but how exactly do you do it?

the kit will come with instructions, but generally lather up board, lay glass, wait, lather over top. 5 x 4mm would be overkill, especially with a decent cave and under a 40kg rider, 4 would be fine, and you may get away with 3 and glass, if your only 40kg. 4 and glass bottom would be plenty strong

i used 4 x 4mm and it was still rather thick..
no glass.

im wanting to make a board but im not sure what wood to use, i want to have a W concave or a tub concave with about a 1 inch drop down. can anyone help with wood suggestions?

you need veneer for a succesfull drop deck, 1.2-1.6mm should do the trick

1.2-1.6mm for each ply? and could i just use wood glue or would it need to be expoxy?

1.2-1.6mm for each veneer? and could i just use pva glue to glue the venners togetther or would i need expoxy? thats what i was meant to say

Titebond 3 is the best glue apparently jasper, but its expensive and i dont know where you could get it in adelaide

A cross linking pva should be ok to use. Titebond 3 is great but as charlie said expensive, best found online. Epoxy works very well also but will add a small amount of weight to your deck

http://www.weldline.com.au/PDFTitebond/Info%20Sheet.pdf
Waterloo corner near Adelaide

With using rice paper for graphics, can you put it on over fibreglass? or do you have to put it under?