Board Builders

sick ghetto press man, what wood are you using?

pacific maple

where can you get extruded foam, like to make foam cores and presses??? bunnings??

fgi, or speciality shops in your area

new board to be sanded, is a pleasure domed drop through......
soooooo sweeeeeet

builders!!! whats the secret to cutting foam?

and glueing it... i made a w cave for my glyde drop and its pimp... but it was a pretty rough cut and shoegoo made the foam warp. any ideas?

guys on the fish use hot wire cutters, if you search the board builders forum there you should come up with something, otherwise my reconing would be to get some pour foam, cos it sticks, i think, , and then just sand or rasp away till you get your shape.

oh, or just use a sharp stanley knife to get the rough shape then sand the rest.

yea a sharp rasp would be pretty good

im gonna sound like a tool cos i asked the same kinda question the other day

but, where do you get pour foam????? :):):)

bunnings? lol

and wwhat density???

mine was a sheet of foam from a foam and rubber place

rigid insulation foam?

could you use that foam to make a male/female press?

sorry for not specifying. i meant for a foam core board.

does anyone have any blueprints or plans for a free ride deck

rookie builder

@ Andrew

no, the foam has to be quite solid, as to still withstand heavy torsional and shearing forces (twisting and sliding),

the idea of a foamie is that the top and bottom comp layers provide the tensile and compressive forces, tensile on the bottom and compressive on the top. Carbon fibre and fibre glass as themselves are exceedingly strong in tension, though extremely poor in compression, hence the epoxy element, which is the other way round. The foam provides the torsional strength, separates the two comp layers, and prevents the two layers form simply shearing when you step on them (ie snapping)

back on topic, youll want something like a high molecular density aviation grade foam, some hobby shops sell it for making model areoplane wings. The thicker the better, then youll have to carve it out using a hot wire. Make sure you make the foam layer really thick, as the further apart the comp layers are the stonger the board

hey umm im prettu keen to make a board umm just wondering what materials i need and how much it costs approximatly

a board cost about 15$
and youll need some mdf, some selleys no-more-gaps, and a whole lot of sand

i thought u needed ummm e poxy and all that and wats the sand for

Hey Dylan stop umming and start reading. Read this thread from the start. There is lots of good info. Go to the silverfish board building forum and read all the sticky threads. Read it all. Good luck

lol sozz bout the umming and thanks foor the advice

@Matthys you asked for help and got it when you started don't be nasty, i just did a little bit of back tracking and around page 17 of this thread i gave you a blow by blow of how you could build a press if i had been a nasty prick i could have dribbled about mdf, no more gaps, and sand but i tried to be helpful. and now your making boards. But your very forgetful, you asked dozens of questions and we all helped in good faith.
@dylan, what steve says. All 25 pages.

hahhahaha dil, mate i told you to read the thread in science, so you started looking at what people joined the group. :S your a worry my skinny friend

sorry dylan, i was just being sarcastic, i and adam reminded me that i was just like this not too long ago,
so as an apology ill send you a couple of the details...

thanks man that woul be muchly appreciated

ok iv read the whole thread now i have a few questions im planing on making a dropthough deck with a w concave and i would like it to be stiff.(like a dropthru avenger)
1) what are the best woods to use and thicknesses
2)how many sheets will i need
3)is it better to use epoxy or water proof pva glue to hold the ply together

well, if you look on the bottom of your page, you should get 1 & 3, however, if your using 1.6mm veneer, 8 0r 9 is usually reasonably stiff, however maby a bit more if your doing a dropthrough without fiberglass. whereas with 3mm or 4mm, four pieces are usually strong enough, i recently made a dropthrough with wcave, ( siiikkk) and i used 4 layers of 4mm marine ply.

mk im doing pretty well with designs and stuff my main worry is how do i test if it will be storng enough and things and iv read and watched videos and some people say use epoxy some say use wood glue which one holds better

both work, pva or tite bond are more forgiving. get waterproof.

aquadhere is pretty sick, havent had any delams yet
and my friend has been riding a board i made for yonks

I'm pretty sure I saw Aquadhere in stock at Blackwoods.

I picked up some Selley's Multipurpose KNEAD IT (polymer repair system) to reshape/rebuild/repair some old boards.....
Has anyone used this and perhaps can please share their opionion on it and/or an opinion on repairing old boards (one's with dents and chips in them)?

araldyte works for me

I've used Knead It on a board; the stuff lasted longer than the board did (so you're good for your first week :)) and didnt have any problems though being the centre of flex and I couldn't notice any difference in the already shoddy ride, so id say give it a shot, as the worst that could happen is the it pops out and you can use something else.

@Marcus -hehe.. sweet, sounds good man. thanks a lot :-)

@Matthys -cool, thanks :-)

hey,

virgin to but not clueless on board building. ive been reading stuff on silverfish. anyone use 2 part aerodux? making a longboard for woodwork and my school has that glue

@Matthys - where do you get your pacific maple? how does it hold up?

its pretty good for prelam ply, but that still doesnt make it nearly strong enough for my standards.......

standards for selling that is,,,
btw, tell a little more about this aerodux, i havent heard about it before........

muahahahahaha
about to make the debut of STROOTH LONGBOARDS , a short wheelbase topmount, and by short i mean 32.5 inches....
with a more agressive sort of a tub/toecutter concave, something like the fullbag boards.......but more agressive of course

i hear youve used marine ply. im making a drop through with 3 layers of 4mm. is that enough?

about aerodux. its a 2 part glue. im pretty sure the guy at toothless used it on his boards. apparently its aircraft standard

pressing my board right now. the press was designed with a 2cm concave and ive used marine ply. will the board flex back when i take it out?

@ Sufyan. No, so long as you apply the right pressure and let the glue cure, ie press hard and leave it in for longer than pack says, just to be sure ;)

ok, thanks. i should take it out soon then. i was actually hoping that it would flex back to give a 12.5 cm concave

, usually it doesnt flex back mate....
however the 3 layers of 4mm will probably have a rather saggy flex, this is what ive seen with marine ply, better off using 4 and going stiff. however, experimentation is the best way of finding what you like

if its too saggy, ill just add another layer later then

what type of press you using???

http://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/longboard-board-buildin... - third post of the page

just took it out of the press. about 2cm concave like i said. haha, you were right, it didnt flex back but thats ok. cant wait to cut it on thursday

matthys, where do you get your marine ply from?