Board Builders

all at the same time has given me good results

i think idream to big but i'm gunna aim for a version of a rayne Kill switch i have access to heaps of MDF to make a top and bottom of a press three strips down the length of the bottom and two on top to get the middle w concave and then two coresponding curves around the truck attacjments. i plan to use only 6mm mdf on the middle sections of the w and try to put a litle extra tweak on the outer edges like another layer on the outer edges. each section i will line with a thin slice og packing poly syrene to round out the shapes. have to find as thin a layer of ply as i can, possible press the first two layers first let it go off then press on anothe layer on top. have to get water proof glue and some ply and get this imagination working as i can not get it out of my head. just rough sketches of the press on some paper at the moment. Gunna try to track down some bamboo ply. there is a guy on the coast who supplies bamboo to the pandas in all the big Zoo's in australia and he also produces bamboo flooring so he has to be lookin at som bamboo ply/laminate?????

i think i'm a nut bag. is it the glue drying in the concave that holds the boards in that shape or does the press change the shape of the ply. Dumb Qu, just look at the info on silver fish i here you say....OK OK OK, i'm doin it now.

Love that vlam alex nice one! What have you used as grip?

i just wanted to ride it so as yet it has none, i will throw on two more layers of polyurethane then fine sand, more 'thane then another coat of sand then a final coat of 'thane then it's all good

ps gunna cut out triangles from the corner of the ply layers to allow for 3D moulding as rayne calls it.

Thats nicely built, very precise, good work! I'm looking foward to seeing the results

which on of you bugger went to the ply shop and bought the last four pieces of 1.8mm ply. From the sunny coast

ha ha

New Fat pigeon Pics - check Build Pics above

By the way randal truck drop through templates off the net, need to be blown up by 108% on a photo copier to be the right size.

dylan good luck. I have a bloke at work who wants me to make him one of mine.

Good stuff! I will have an awesome custom finished up this week. Stay tuned

Pics up. Check Build pics 2

new board i bulit this weekend, firbe glass and epoxy with natural finish, kingpin trucks, 78a wheels, very flexible, good for streeet freestyle

Nice one bro!, you can't beat a nice flexy deck for tearin up the streets. So satisfiying too when you make it yourself

thanks!, oh it is so so very nice and so chill

hey guys does anyone know what sort of paint i should use when painting graphics on my board?

ask paul

thanksss man.

heys guys, how do i make a kick, for something like an alva? and whats the best way to build a press? materials. please help me

questions:
-where would i be able to find epoxy+fibreglass in melbourne?
-is there a specific kind of either i'm looking for?

thanks!

try boat/yacht builders, marine supplies or something like that. You want a good quality epoxy (read expensive) as cheap ones are not worth the hassle. For fibreglass you want the woven stuff not the mat which is just chopped up fibres. There are many types which are good for different things. Start with say a 200-300gsm (7- 8 oz) plain weave. this has the strands woven at 0 and 90 degrees. you may need a couple of layers of this depending on your application. Experiment from there.

Put another board in the press last night no. 3, extended the w concave in to the back foot for sliding grip/arch support. Tried a different glue this one is polyurethane based and foams up as it dries, suposed to dry stiffer???? Using a bracing ply not the lighter pine, it seemed more substantial in the last board????? so i used it again. Its going to be a little shorter and i have made the front foot single concave smaller to hopefully lock in the foot better. It may not be as good a board for pushing and cruising but it should be great for doing longer hills and sliding. My second board has been out of the press a while see pics on my page, and is all shaped and ready to glass but i'm gunna wait and do both at the same time.

thanks steve!

No probs Ben

Adam I see the experimentation has begun! Nice work, Keep us posted on the results.

I will have two new decks up for sale shortly.

dylan last you post you made a while back you promised a 30 by 10 top mount piece of gnar, what happened???
Not real happy with the glue, hard to work with board might be a little stiffer but a couple of sections have delamed on the edge, so i arildited and clamped, a few other possible reasons due to changed in the press and shape i cut the ply to befor pressin but it will be ok. i still looking forward to glassing and riding but i got heaps of other stuff on the go, other than sk8board building. i will just have to bite the bullet and get tite bond and be done with it. ended up about the same wheel base.
Any secretes on cutting out drop throughs, ends up being a bit dodgy?

Work, trying to renovate a house and studying uni externally, all at the same time. i know how it feels. Concentrate on school.

hey, me n two friends wanna make 3 identical dh boards, were in the brisbane mt gravatt region, i have looked at the whole builders forum and some on silverfish but im still a little in the dark as to how to. where can you get maple or birch, and if not, does structural ac appearance grade hoop pine work in , what glue do u use, what coat do you give it, and how do you get graphics onto it??????

dylan you gonnna hate year 12 then;):P

You won't find birch, you will be struggling to find maple and if you do it will be expensive. hoop pine or marine ply is fine. Glue - use water resisant pva, titebond or epoxy. What coat do you give it? Probably a warm one especially if its winter! There are heaps of options for graphics. Seriously dude do some proper research. We are not going to build your deck for you. You are and you should enjoy the learning experience

I was where you are less than six months ago and I found all the answers to your questions by simply reading. So get to it

kk, sweet, sorry about that..

foot pockets are so last week dude!

I'm thinking that your approach will take many hours of work to get right and then what happens when you want to change your foot position, say a heelside turn, your rear foots gonna have a big hollow under it?

id be more than happy to test out any of ur ideas dylan.
:D

ok
Just went to mr plywood and bought 16 sheets of 4/300/1200mm ( two sheets of 1200 by 24000) marine ply. apparently it is pacific maple.
it looks darker and redder than normal wood but it seems to be pretty sturdy.
me and my friends are planning on making 4 boards.
i just need to go to bunnings and buy the glue, whats the best value for money?
were going to glue 3 or 4 sheets together.
and r going to be using a ghetto dim style press. with wood from around the place. we dont know if were going to make a dropdown or just a topmount mould.
we got the guy to cut half of the boards along the grain and half across. for ease of moulding.

i really want to make one like the glyde dropdown but dont know much about the wedge/ dewedge.
were probs going to go for a few layers of glass on the bottom to strengthen if it doesnt hold up well enought.
any thoughts?

There is no need to cut plywood across the grain as the layers in between run across the grain. You only need to do that when using veneer. just a bit of info for next time

kk sweet, but you can definetally see that the across grain bend more lengthwise than the straight. wheras the lengthwise bends much more crosswise than the cross grain cut if u know what i mean.

Matthys
go hard.
but 4mm thick will be hard to get the rad bends like glyde, should be able to make sick drop through and stuff. go all out, concave rather than drop downs with out concave. i have a bit of both but have fun.
my two cents

i have almost finished making a male/female mdf dim press like the one on vimeo, exept using mdf instead of foam. u recon thatll work?
otherwise im just gonna make one with and inch of concave and drop it thru.

work with the 4mm that is...

Don't have your mates let you do all the work.

I haven't tried it but 4mm ply will probably be too thick for a drop deck. You will most likely get cracking around the drop or the drop will spread out ( maybe not with a mdf mold, this happens with foam).

Maybe try pressing one sacraficial ply in your mold dry and see what happens. If there is no cracking or other problems go for it otherwise try a mold with just some nice concave for a topmount which the 4mm wil be more suited to.

kk, i bought some aquadhere outdoor pva from bunnings yesterday.
i only want to make one inch of drop but im still a little worrried about whats gonna happen.
steve, when you say test it in the press, do u mean just put a single dry sheet in there then clamp it all up?
and then if it snaps then just fo for normal concave?

by the way, where do you guys get your fiberglass resin, ive seen it at bunnings for like 25$ for a medium sized paint tin, but bias have a bigger range, do you think ittle work out cheaper from there?
btw
how much resin will i need for 4 boards?
its about a meter squared per board for like 3 sheets of glass , but im not sure how much resin you use...

im still a little bit confused with aplication too. do you buy the resin. then buy the catalyst seperately or does the resin work by itself????

ask a fiberglass shop or boat building shop in your area yellow pages, my boards have a single layer of glass sheet. read all the posts on here as these questions have been answered. pm me with email address i can send you an instruction document on fiberglassing. but i got it from a link some one put on this discussion board. and yes that is what Steve means 0ne inch drop is pretty big mine is 12mm or 1/2 inch????? and i used 3mm. if you don't mind a shallow slope it might be ok.

matthys, bunnings polyester resin is crap, go to volks glass in springwood and get some epoxy, both poly and epoxy need the catylyst/hardener or they dont harden - simple.
you will need as much resin as the weight of the glass you intend to wet down + %10

ie:- one sq metre of 300gsm glass will require 330grams of resin.

good luck trying to get tight radius bends with prelam ply, ive never tried because i know it wont work the only way to acheive true laminated tight radius bends is with venneer and you can use the adhesives that bond the ceramic tiles to the spaceshuttle to laminate your prelam together but its the laminates that you did not glue that will let you down six months down the track, you will be best off keeping it simple and doing top mount or drop through with concave.
have fun, ALWAYS cover your arms/hands/legs and wear a mask when working with glass (especially when sanding) also make sure you make a massive mess in dads shed, he'll love it.

kk, finished the press, heres sorta how it looks

i think its gonna look like the top one where the concave looks more like two diagonal humps rather than a proper tub concave. i would rather have the tub tho.
the way that im gonna do this is by the bottom base from the last piece of mdf down the the corner.