Removing axles from Indy's?
Just wondering if anyone has removed an axle from an indy or similar cast truck? If so do you mind sharing how you did it? The obvious answer is to press it out but i'm looking for alternatives (if any!)
Views: 32
Replies to This Discussion
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by bernie on -
Bearing spacers!
Put a few between the hanger and the axle nut.
wind the axle nut down to the end of the thread.
remove axle nut, put in more spacers,
repeat until axle is drawn out.
If you don't have enough spacers, use bearings.
best to use a press to re-insert the axle.
most auto workshops have a press, and will generally be able to help you.
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Permalink Reply by Dale on -
If you were to remove an 8mm axle from a truck, then go to press in another axle of 8mm (if you were machining down the hangar as an example, or replacing for a true 8mm) would you encounter axle slip later on? or would the difference in size between the previous axle and the new one be enough to hold the axle in place?
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Permalink Reply by Duff on -
Thanks Bernie good idea! I think once i crack it with your method it should make it easier to tap out.
Dael, yep you're right. I'll probably tap some holes and use a couple of grub screws to hold it in there.
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Permalink Reply by Brad NS on -
Just be carefull Nick ! I think indy axles have a SPLINE about 2 cm long inside the hanger ( its to stop axle slip or spin )
I HAVE AN OLD BENT ONE HERE (ill bang it out and see if it is SPLINED !! )
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Permalink Reply by Brad NS on
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There ya go Nick ! Came out easy as (using the BERNIE method ) the spline is only 1cm long and just inside the casting !!
IT DID NOT chew out the hole ,once the spline came out it taped out with a hammer ...... :)
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by bernie on -
If you are pulling out a 5/16" (7.9375mm) axle and replacing it with an 8mm you should not need to worry too much about axle slip because you will have a .0625mm interference fit, which might actually be too tight.
If you stick the hanger in the oven (highest temp, 30-40 minutes), and the axle in the freezer (two hours) before assembly, you will find it easier to press the axle back in.
(this is where kevlar gloves from Draggin will be useful)
This also works for putting new roller bearings onto yz80 crankshafts!
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Permalink Reply by Duff on
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Nice one Brad, yeah i tried it earlier but on a new set of indy's and they seem to be stuck in there pretty bloody tight! It just stripped the thread out of the nut. I'll wait and use a press!
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Premium MemberPermalink Reply by Fitz on -
I had success using a hammer and pin punch for removal.
Like Brad said just make sure your driving it the right way. If you don't see the splined end come out after one end of the axle is pushed all the way in, you're going the wrong way.
If you're replacing it with a precision 8mm axle your gonna need to ream out the hanger first.
Most cast trucks are designed to be 5/16" like bernie said but actually measure 7.85mm or sometimes even less.
If you don't ream it out first it'll be way too heavy an interference fit and you run a high risk of bending that nice new axle before you even ride.
Once reamed it'll still require a tap fit with a hammer. Put a crappy old wheel nut on the end before you hit it so you don't mushroom the threaded end. Once fitted it shouldn't turn while you tighten up the wheelnuts unless the threads are damaged.
I made a set of 120-140mm variable width Indy's a few years back. They worked really well as a GS front truck.
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